Internal Reference · Essentials

Essentials Pricing.

Men's and women's essentials tiers — target retail bands, garment slots, and the cost rationale that backs greenlighting prototype runs.

Men's Tier

Men's Essentials.

Six garment slots covering the core wardrobe — shirt, trouser, vest, knitwear, coat, headwear. Each priced against American mill sourcing costs and a 60–65% gross margin target.

American Field Shirt 7oz chambray · two chest pockets · Cone Mills, Greensboro, NC Target Band $275–$325 Current Price $295 Status In design
Canvas Work Trouser 10oz canvas duck · straight cut · Mount Vernon Mills, Trion, GA Target Band $325–$375 Current Price $345 Status In design
Wool Chore Vest Heavyweight boiled wool · four pockets · Conestoga Woolen Co., Lancaster County, PA Target Band $375–$425 Current Price $395 Status In design
Merino Crewneck Fine-gauge American merino · ribbed cuffs · American Woolen Co., Burlington, VT Target Band $325–$375 Current Price $345 Status In design
American Long Coat Knee-length double-faced wool · four-button · Pendleton Woolen Mills, Portland, OR Target Band $475–$525 Current Price $495 Status In design
Waxed Canvas Cap Six-panel · brass-ring adjuster · Conestoga Woolen Co., Lancaster County, PA Target Band $85–$110 Current Price $95 Status In design
Women's Tier

Women's Essentials.

Six garment slots in women's proportions and cuts — same American mills, same construction standards, same margin structure. Development tracks the men's tier with one shared SKU.

Chambray Field Shirt Women's cut · 7oz chambray · Cone Mills, Greensboro, NC Target Band $275–$325 Current Price TBD Status In development
Straight Work Trouser Women's proportions · canvas duck · Mount Vernon Mills, Trion, GA Target Band $325–$375 Current Price TBD Status In development
Boiled Wool Vest Women's fit · heavyweight boiled wool · Conestoga Woolen Co., Lancaster County, PA Target Band $375–$425 Current Price TBD Status In development
Merino Pullover Fine-gauge merino · women's silhouette · American Woolen Co., Burlington, VT Target Band $325–$375 Current Price TBD Status In development
Long Coat Women's proportions · double-faced wool · Pendleton Woolen Mills, Portland, OR Target Band $495–$545 Current Price TBD Status In development
Canvas Cap Six-panel · shared with men's SKU · Conestoga Woolen Co., Lancaster County, PA Target Band $85–$110 Current Price $95 Status Shared SKU
Cost Rationale

Why these numbers.

Three factors set the floor and the ceiling. Understanding them is how the team sizes proto spend without guessing.

Material Cost Floor

American mills set the floor at $85–$545.

Sourcing from Conestoga Woolen Co., American Woolen Co., and Cone Mills carries a significant raw material premium over offshore alternatives — typically 3–4× per yard. This is intentional. The floor isn't a constraint to minimize; it's the baseline that defines Quillon's position. A field shirt below $275 retail would require either cheaper fabric or unacceptable margin compression. The $85 cap floor and the $545 coat ceiling reflect what domestic mill costs actually look like at a 25–50 piece proto run volume.

Proto Run Breakeven

25-piece runs break even at these price points.

Each essentials proto run is budgeted at 25 pieces minimum. At that volume, fixed costs — pattern work, grading, cut-shop setup, labeling — amortize across fewer units and push the effective per-unit cost up by 20–35% versus a production run. The target retail bands are set wide enough ($50 spread) to absorb that variance without repricing between proto and production. Any slot where the proto unit cost would require retail above the target band ceiling is flagged for volume review before greenlighting.

Margin Target

60–65% gross margin sustains the model.

Direct-to-consumer small-batch production requires higher gross margin than wholesale-volume brands — there's no retailer markup to absorb overhead. Quillon targets 60–65% gross margin on all essentials SKUs. Below 60%, the economics don't support the quality standards or the pace of proto development. Above 65% at current volumes would suggest pricing that outpaces the value proposition. Every retail price in this reference is back-calculated from that target against known landed cost ranges per garment slot.